Crepe is a fabric characterized by its distinct, rippled texture, which is achieved through a special weaving or treatment process. Often used for formal occasions, crepe fabric gives garments a delicate, elegant appearance.
Historically, crepe was worn during mourning in many Western cultures, a practice that has since faded. However, some cultures continue to use crepe in traditional clothing, with methods of production that have been passed down through generations.
Crepe fabric in history
Crepe fabric has no single point of origin; its basic concept has been adopted by many cultures throughout history. For example, Orthodox Greek women still use crepe for mourning, and several cultures from the Indian subcontinent incorporate it into traditional garments.
In the West, crepe grew in popularity outside of mourning attire during the 19th century, especially as a variety of crepe weaves and materials were developed by the Courtaulds company.
Crepe fabric today
In modern fashion, crepe is often used in high-end garments, moving far beyond its association with mourning. Its lightweight, textured finish makes it ideal for creating flowing, airy clothing, and it is often blended with other fabrics to enhance its properties.
Today, the term “crepe” encompasses many varieties of textured fabrics, including both natural and synthetic materials. The focus now is on creating sustainable and eco-friendly textiles, as the definition of crepe fabric continues to evolve.
How is crepe fabric made?
Crepe is made by twisting yarns more tightly than usual, using alternating “S” and “Z” twists to create its signature texture. Whether made from natural fibers like silk or synthetic ones like polyester, the crucial element of crepe is its distinctive weave. After the yarn is spun, it is dyed and treated before being woven into fabric.
How is the fabric used?
Crepe is commonly found in garments like scarves, evening wear, and lightweight dresses. Wool crepe is more durable and is used for heavier garments like sweaters, while synthetic crepe tends to be less durable but can be more affordable. Crepe’s ability to drape and contour the body makes it especially popular in formal wear.
Where is crepe fabric produced?
Crepe fabric is made worldwide, but the production depends on the type of material used. China is the largest producer of silk, while Australia leads in wool production. For synthetic crepe, China also dominates, but it’s important to consider the environmental impact of synthetic fabric production.
How much does crepe fabric cost?
Crepe fabric made from silk or wool is more expensive than synthetic alternatives, with costs rising for dyed or treated fabrics.
Types of crepe fabric
Crepe comes in many variations, including:
Crepe fabric comes in many variations, each with its unique qualities. Here’s a glimpse at some notable types:
- Aerophane
Once popular in the mid-19th century, aerophane features a distinctive gauze-like texture. Although no longer in production, its qualities are often replicated in modern crepe fabrics. - Bauté Satin
This complex crepe design incorporates a warp weave with a reversed plain crepe structure. A popular French variety, it remains widely used today. - Canton Crepe
Originally made in China, Canton crepe is still found in many Asian-inspired garments and continues to be a distinctive style in crepe fabric production. - Crepe Anglaise
This black-and-white crepe was traditionally associated with rural England. During times of war and trade, the British and French exchanged cultural goods, including variations of crepe weaves. - Crepe de Sante
Also known as health crepe, this type is rough in texture and remains undyed, offering a more natural look. - Crepeline
A branded crepe from the 1800s, Crepeline is known for its incorporation of modern textile techniques, blending traditional and contemporary weaving processes. - Crepon
Made from heavier fabric, crepon was popular in the late 19th century and remains a notable type of crepe, especially for its textured appearance. - French Crepe
Also called flat crepe, this variety is commonly used in lingerie for its smooth and sleek finish. - Plisse
Plisse crepe is chemically treated to achieve a puckered texture, making it a favored choice for eveningwear due to its elegant and textured look.
Environmental impact
The environmental impact of crepe depends largely on the material used. Silk and wool are generally sustainable, as they are biodegradable, while synthetic crepe is much less eco-friendly. However, silk production can be harmful to silkworms, and synthetic textiles often involve harmful chemicals.
Certifications
Various certifications ensure the sustainability of crepe fabrics:
– Silk Mark for sustainable silk production.
– Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) and Woolmark for high-quality wool.
– Global Recycle Standard (GRS) for recycled synthetic textiles.
Crepe fabric continues to be a beloved and versatile material, with a rich history and ongoing evolution in modern fashion.